It was an old white-washed Toyota Corolla, a model probably from the early 80’s. Our hired driver was a ******* man with a kind smile and teeth stained by red Koon-ya (the country’s version of tobacco). Instead of pants, he wore a sarong, which was the country’s type of kilt. We loaded our bags into the car and set off into the night. Once we were out of the city we found ourselves on a road forged in the midst of trees.
I tried to make out anything beyond the road. But it was pitch black, and with our headlights on we could only see a few feet ahead. The car jolted up and down against the unpaved road. Slowly, we made our way, twisting and turning to avoid the countless potholes. Through the trees I could hear the distant sound of ethnic music, blasting from what sounded like an old stereo system.
“Ajon, I hear music.” I said. “Where is that coming from?”
“A village,” he replied. “Maybe they are having a wedding.”
At 50-years old Reverend Ajon was both my friend and guide. He was a stout, rounded native who never seemed to be lacking any joy. As a seasoned pastor and missionary, I was learning much, just by watching him.
In the back seat I reclined and put my hand out the window, cupping my palm against the wind. I was bouncing up and down like a pinball. I gritted my teeth. The car’s suspension system felt like it was put together with steel bars.
I looked out the window and let out a soft breath. The stars were shining brightly against an unadulterated, crisp black sky. It was almost majestic. This country was poor, but it didn’t have all the big industries to clog the air. The sky was stellar, immovable- a constant reminder of my Creator who had brought me so far. For some reason, I felt an indelible peace. With every pothole we passed I was getting closer to seeing the victims of the cyclone.
I began to pray silently.
“Dear God, please, please let me help the people affected by the cyclone. Please use whatever I have to give… I can write. I can report. Whatever. Just let me help…”
I repeated the prayer again and again. I just wanted to help. When I was in Laos a month ago, I learned that the Laos government’s number one enemy was Christianity. Now I was traveling in *****, where the number one enemy of the state was journalists. I was no martyr and I was just as scared as anyone else. But one thing I wanted to be was obedient to God and faithful to those supporting me.
A week before I was at my desk in Bangkok, working at my computer when Dalma said to me:
“Eric, maybe it’s better you come back as soon as you can. You know? The last journalist who went was put in prison for 12 years.”
“Really?” I said.
I felt the blood fall from my face. I imagined spending the next 12 years in prison. I had heard stories of Christians put in stocks, without a bathroom, eating porridge everyday from a bowl. I imagined life as a 34-year-old hapless, middle-aged man. Bangkok was comfortable, and something in me wanted to stay. But then, I thought of all the people who were supporting me back home. I remembered why I left America. I had a mission.
Courage. Trust God. He brought you here for a reason.
I tried to keep proactive words ringing in my head. I decided to be steadfast and resolute- if God opened up a door for me to enter any highly restricted areas, I’d walk through it- no matter the consequences.
“You okay bro?” Ajon turned back from the passenger seat. We were still driving down the road with nothing in sight.
“Yes sir,” I smiled. “I am fine.”
We rolled up on a government checkpoint. As we slowed to a halt, I pretended to sleep. I put a hand on my digital SLR next to me in my bag. In the trunks I had a camcorder, with tapes and a tripod. An officer with a rifle bent down and peeked through the window. He muttered some words in *******. Since we all looked like natives, he recorded our information and waved us past. As we sped through Ajon and the driver muttered something to each other. I took a look at Ajon. He was cool as ice.
The dust from the road blew against my face, encrusting in my hair and clothes. The grains of sand were almost palpable. I shut my eyes and imagined a sandy beach in California. I imagined myself running across the shoreline with the wind in my face. I was surfing a wave, in the next moment I was laughing with friends.
I wasn’t sure how much time had passed when I awoke some hours later, but the time was 2 am.
“We’re here bro.” Ajon said from outside the car.
I blinked the sleep out of my eyes and pushed myself out the car. We made it.
****